Silver Leaf Stringybark

Silver leaf stringybark (Eucalyptus cephalocarpa) is a fast, genuinely tough Victorian gum that reaches about 12m tall and 7m wide in a garden over ten to fifteen years. The juvenile foliage is rounded and silver-grey, the mature canopy is grey-green, and the trunk carries the fibrous stringy bark the name refers to. Cream flowers bring in honeyeaters and bees. Plant it where a real shade tree belongs, not in a courtyard.

Why you'll love it

• Silver foliage on a big tree. The grey-silver juvenile leaves set it apart from the plain green gums most people picture, and young trees carry them for years.
• Shade within a decade. Fast growing and reliable, so a bare paddock or back corner gets useful canopy far sooner than with a slow tree.
• Wet ground and dry both suit it. Wet feet tolerant and drought tolerant, an unusual pairing that fits low lying ground which floods in winter and bakes in summer.
• Native, and busy with wildlife. Cream blossom feeds honeyeaters, native bees and butterflies through the flowering period.

Where it works best

Shade trees. Give it a clear 7m and keep it well away from pipes, paving and buildings. Large eucalypt roots and small blocks do not mix, and this is the main limitation to plan around.

Windbreaks and paddocks. Plant 6m to 8m apart in a row, or staggered in two rows for stock shelter. Poor soil tolerance means it establishes on ground that defeats other trees.

Driveways and avenues. A rural or acreage driveway lined with these looks right within ten years. It is too big for a narrow suburban verge.

Growing silver leaf stringybark in Australia

Position and climate. Full sun, and plenty of room. It is a species for cool temperate, warm temperate and Mediterranean gardens, and it is frost hardy, so cold southern districts and the tablelands suit it well. It is not the right gum for tropical or subtropical humidity.

Soil. Poor soil is fine, clay is fine, and periods of wet ground are tolerated. Do not enrich the planting hole, and avoid high phosphorus fertilisers, which Australian natives handle badly.

Water and feed. Deep soak weekly through the first two summers to push the roots down, then leave it to rainfall except in severe drought. Feeding is optional, and a light native fertiliser in spring is more than enough.

Pruning. Prune while it is young to a single strong leader, removing competing stems early. Once mature, leave it alone apart from removing dead wood, and expect it to shed bark and the occasional small branch, as all eucalypts do.

What to expect when it arrives

It is offered in one size, a 45L pot: an established young tree with a formed trunk, not a tube stock whip. Plant it into a wide hole at the same depth it sits in the pot, stake it low for the first year in a windy site, and water it in well.

Plants are packed to travel upright and delivered Australia wide, with delivery from $29.95. Advanced and large stock is freighted at cost. Every plant is covered by our 30 day healthy plant guarantee.

Plant care guides and related reading

• Browse Australian native trees
• Fast growing shade trees
• Choosing trees for paddock shade
• Bird attracting native plants

Common questions

How close to the house can I plant it?

Not close. A tree of this size wants distance from the building, the driveway and any pipework, and the safe rule is to plant beyond the eventual canopy width of 7m.

How fast does it grow?

Fast for a eucalypt. Expect it to reach around 12m in ten to fifteen years with reasonable soil and water, less on very dry sites.

Is it suitable for a small suburban backyard?

Honestly, no. At 12m tall and 7m wide it overwhelms a standard block, and a smaller native tree is the better answer for a suburban garden.