Olive Trees

Fruit or foliage: the first decision

If the harvest matters, start with the table classics. The Kalamata Olive reaches about 6m unpruned but is easily held at 3m to 4m with an annual prune. Manzanillo stays lower and more spreading at around 5m, and Verdale is a South Australian dual purpose variety for both the table and the press. For oil, Frantoio is a heavy cropping, self fertile Italian variety, and Arbequina packs a serious harvest into a compact 5m tree. All sit within our wider fruit tree range.

For silver grey foliage without the harvest, Swan Hill is effectively fruitless and sheds very little pollen, keeping paving and pool filters clean. The Tolleys Upright Olive grows as a narrow 4m column about 1.5m wide with only light fruit, made for tight side passages. For pots and courtyards, the dwarf Bambalina stays near 2.5m and Garden Harvest about 3m. One outlier: the Tea Olive is an Osmanthus, not a true olive, and earns its place with intensely perfumed spring flowers.

Where olive trees thrive in Australia

Olives evolved around the Mediterranean, so Perth, Adelaide and dry inland districts suit them best. They are just as reliable through Sydney, and nearly every variety here is frost hardy enough for Melbourne, Canberra and the hills. All tolerate salt and coastal wind. In subtropical Brisbane, choose Arbequina, Mission or Swan Hill and accept a lighter fruit set in humid summers. Their roots are famously well behaved, which is why so many appear among our trees with non invasive roots. In parts of South Australia and Victoria olives self seed readily, so collect dropped fruit or plant the fruitless Swan Hill.

Planting and spacing

Full sun is essential, six hours or more, in free draining soil. Olives forgive poor ground but not wet feet, so mound the bed if drainage is doubtful.

• Grove or informal screen: Kalamata and Manzanillo at 3m apart, Frantoio at 4m.
• Narrow screen: Tolleys Upright at 1m apart.
• Clipped hedge: Bambalina at 1m apart, or Verdale at 2m for extra height.
• Feature tree: allow 3m to 4m of clear width for the classic rounded canopy.

Care once planted

Water deeply once or twice a week through the first summer, then taper right off; overwatering kills more olives than drought ever does. Feed lightly in spring, and prune after harvest or in late winter, opening the centre so light reaches the fruiting wood. Most varieties here are self fertile, and Nevadillo Blanco doubles as a reliable pollinator for the rest.

Common questions

Can you eat olives straight off the tree?

No. Fresh olives are intensely bitter and need curing in brine or salt first. Curing is a simple kitchen job that takes a few weeks.

Do I need two olive trees to get fruit?

Usually not. Frantoio, Arbequina and Nevadillo Blanco are all self fertile, so a single tree will crop on its own. A second variety nearby generally lifts the harvest.

Which olive is best in a pot?

Bambalina, a true dwarf at about 2.5m, is the standout, with Garden Harvest and Tolleys Upright close behind. Our guide to growing olive trees in pots covers containers, mix and watering.

How long before a young tree fruits?

Expect a few establishment years before the first worthwhile crop. Larger advanced trees shorten the wait considerably.

How does delivery work?

Every olive here is delivered Australia wide, with delivery from $29.95 and a minimum order of $300 before delivery. Advanced and large stock is freighted at cost, and all plants carry our 30 day healthy plant guarantee.