Swamp Yate

Swamp Yate (Eucalyptus occidentalis) is the gum to plant where other trees drown or burn off. It reaches about 10m tall and 6m wide, grows quickly, and tolerates the two conditions that defeat most shade trees: ground that waterlogs through winter, and soil that is saline, compacted or simply poor. Cream and yellow blossom follows in the warmer months, and honeyeaters find it fast.

Why you'll love it

• It grows where drainage fails. Wet feet are tolerated, which is why this species is a standard choice for revegetating low lying and salt affected paddocks.
• Salt and wind do not slow it down. Coastal and salt tolerant, so it holds its shape on an exposed block instead of shredding on the windward side.
• Quick canopy from a young tree. A fast growing gum that casts useful shade within a few seasons rather than a decade.
• Blossom that feeds wildlife. Cream to yellow flowers bring honeyeaters, native bees and butterflies to an otherwise bare part of the property.

Where it works best

Windbreaks and shelter belts. Plant 5m apart in a row. That spacing lets each crown develop properly, so the belt filters wind along its full height instead of forming a wall that pushes turbulence over the top.

Shade over open ground. At 10m by 6m it suits paddocks, large rural blocks, driveway edges and generous back yards. It is too big for a standard suburban courtyard.

Coastal and saline sites. Salt laden wind and brackish groundwater are both within its range, which makes it a practical fix for the difficult corner of a property.

Growing swamp yate in Australia

Position and climate. Full sun, always. It suits Mediterranean, warm temperate and arid to semi-arid gardens, covering most of southern and inland Australia, and it is frost hardy once established. It is not the pick for the humid tropics.

Soil. Genuinely undemanding. Clay, sand, compacted fill and saline ground all work, and unlike most eucalypts it accepts seasonal waterlogging. Mulch 75mm deep, kept clear of the trunk.

Water and feed. Deep soak weekly through the first two summers to drive roots down, then rely on rainfall in all but the driest years. A low phosphorus native fertiliser in early spring is enough if growth looks pale.

Pruning. Little is needed. In the first three years remove any competing leader and lift the lower limbs to mowing height. Avoid heavy cuts on mature wood.

What to expect when it arrives

We grow this one in two advanced sizes, 45L and 100L. The 45L is a well branched young tree and the better value for a shelter belt. The 100L arrives with real height and trunk calliper, which suits a single specimen where you want presence straight away.

Trees are packed to travel upright and delivered Australia wide, with delivery from $29.95. Advanced and large stock is freighted at cost. Expect a settling month after planting, then strong growth through the first warm season. Every plant is covered by our 30 day healthy plant guarantee.

Plant care guides and related reading

• Choosing shade trees for farm paddocks
• Compare windbreak and shelter belt plants
• Browse the Australian native tree range
• Plants for coastal and salt exposed gardens

Common questions

How far apart should I plant a windbreak?

Five metres apart in a single row is the working figure. For a wider belt, run two rows 5m apart and stagger the trees so the gaps in one row sit behind trunks in the other.

Will it really survive ground that floods in winter?

Yes, within reason. It handles soil that stays saturated for weeks at a time, which is unusual for a eucalypt. Permanent standing water is a different matter and will still rot the roots.

Is it too large for a suburban block?

On a standard block, probably. At 10m tall and 6m across it needs room and clearance from the house and services. On acreage or a wide rural frontage it is well proportioned.