Fairy Iris (Dietes grandiflora) is the plant landscapers reach for when a bed has to look good with almost no attention. It forms an upright evergreen clump about 1.2m tall and 1m across, and sends white iris flowers marked with yellow and violet up above the foliage from spring into summer. It takes frost, drought, heat, salt and wet soil.
Why you'll love it
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It survives conditions that kill other plants. Frost hardy, drought tolerant, heat tolerant, salt tolerant and comfortable with wet feet, all in the one clump.
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Evergreen structure year round. The strappy upright foliage holds its shape in every season, so the bed never looks bare between flushes.
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White flowers with real detail. Each bloom is white with yellow and violet markings, held clear of the leaves on tall stems.
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It suits nearly every Australian climate. Tropical, subtropical, warm temperate, cool temperate and Mediterranean gardens all grow it well.
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Low maintenance in the real sense. No staking, no spraying, no annual replanting.
Where it works best
Mass planting. Plant 60cm apart for a continuous sweep. The clumps meet within a season or two and read as one planting rather than a row of individuals.
Poolside. It does not shed messy leaves into the water, takes reflected heat and splash, and gives vertical form against a flat pool edge.
Borders, coastal gardens and pots. Use it as a repeating accent, in an exposed coastal bed where salt wind burns softer plants, or in a pot 400mm or wider.
Growing Fairy Iris in Australia
Position and climate. Full sun gives the most flowers; part shade gives fewer. Frost hardy and heat tolerant, so it works from the tropics through to cool temperate and Mediterranean gardens. In the coldest districts heavy frost can mark the foliage, which recovers in spring.
Soil. Almost anything. Sand, clay loam and ground that stays damp are all workable, and it will sit in a soggy spot that would rot most plants of this size.
Water and feed. Water weekly for the first two months, then it can rely on natural rain in most gardens. A light complete fertiliser in early spring lifts flowering, though it flowers without it.
Pruning. Do not shear the clump like a grass, because cut leaf tips brown off and stay that way for months. Pull spent flower stems at the base and remove tired outer leaves individually. Every three or four years, lift and divide a congested clump.
What to expect when it arrives
Three sizes are grown: tube stock, 140mm pots in packs of ten, and 200mm pots in packs of six. Tubes are small divisions and the economical way to plant a large area, taking about two seasons to look established. The 140mm and 200mm plants are the usual landscape choice.
Clumping plants like this travel well, and a few bent or creased leaves after transit are cosmetic. Plants are delivered Australia wide, with delivery from $29.95. Advanced and large stock is freighted at cost. Expect roots moving within two to three weeks and the first flowers the following spring, all covered by our 30 day healthy plant guarantee.
Plant care guides and related reading
Common questions
How far apart should I plant it for mass planting?
Sixty centimetres apart, centre to centre. Closer and the clumps compete and lose shape; wider and bare soil shows for the first few years.
Should I cut it back hard each year?
No. Shearing leaves blunt brown tips for months. Remove spent flower stems at the base and pull out old leaves individually instead.
Does it spread or seed into the garden?
The clump widens slowly rather than running, but it does set seed, so remove old flower stems if you would rather not find seedlings nearby.