Ixora is one of the most reliable flowering shrubs for warm Australian gardens. It produces dense clusters of red, orange, pink or gold flowers for months at a time, holds glossy foliage year-round, and clips neatly into a low hedge. It is also fussy about one thing above all others: soil pH. Get that right and ixora is close to trouble-free; get it wrong and the leaves turn yellow no matter what else you do.
Quick facts
| Detail | What to expect |
|---|---|
| Botanical name | Ixora coccinea and Ixora chinensis |
| Mature size | 600 mm-1 m for compact forms, 1.5-2 m for older varieties |
| Position | Full sun to light shade. More sun means more flowers |
| Soil | Acidic, pH 5.0-6.0, free draining and rich in organic matter |
| Water | Regular through the warm months, less in winter |
| Flowering | Spring through autumn in the subtropics, close to year-round in the tropics |
| Frost | Frost tender. Damaged below about 5°C |
| Best climates | Brisbane, the Sunshine and Gold Coasts, northern NSW, tropical Queensland, Darwin |
Where ixora grows well in Australia
- Brisbane, the Gold and Sunshine Coasts and northern NSW are ideal. Ixora flowers for most of the year here and works as a low hedge or mass planting.
- Tropical Queensland and Darwin give the longest flowering of all, often barely stopping.
- Sydney and the central NSW coast grow it well in a warm sheltered position, though flowering slows through winter.
- Perth can grow it, but the naturally alkaline sandy soils need serious acidifying and regular iron.
- Melbourne, Adelaide, Canberra and inland districts are too cold. Ixora is damaged by frost and will not thrive outdoors. Grow it in a pot that shelters over winter, or choose a hardier flowering shrub.
Choosing the right variety
Modern compact varieties are far better garden plants than the older tall forms. They flower harder, stay dense to the ground and need less pruning.
| Variety | Flower | Size and use |
|---|---|---|
| Compact Orange | Bright orange | 600-800 mm. Low hedge, border, mass planting |
| Compact Gold | Golden yellow | 600-800 mm. Lifts shaded corners, pairs well with orange |
| Coral Malay | Coral pink | 1-1.5 m. Softer colour, good feature shrub |
| Gold Malay | Deep gold | 1-1.5 m. Larger flower heads, informal screen |
For a clipped low hedge along a path or driveway, the compact forms are the ones to use. Plant them 500-600 mm apart for a continuous line. You can compare all four in our shrubs collection.
How to plant
- Test your soil pH first. This is the step most people skip and the reason most ixoras disappoint. Aim for 5.0-6.0. Kits are inexpensive and take a minute.
- Acidify if needed. Work through compost, aged pine bark or an azalea and camellia mix. Avoid lime and avoid mushroom compost, both of which raise pH.
- Choose a warm position with at least four hours of sun. In the tropics some afternoon shade keeps the foliage darker.
- Plant at the same depth as the pot, firm gently and water in well.
- Mulch with an acidic mulch such as pine bark, kept clear of the stems.
- Space for the variety - 500-600 mm apart for compact hedging, one metre for the larger Malay types.
Growing ixora in pots
Compact varieties do well in containers, which is the practical answer in Perth's alkaline soils or anywhere south of Sydney where the plant needs winter shelter. Use an azalea and camellia potting mix, a pot at least 400 mm wide, and feed more often than you would in the ground.
Ongoing care
Watering
Keep the soil evenly moist through spring and summer, particularly while the plant is flowering. Ixora dislikes drying out completely and will drop buds if stressed. Reduce watering over winter, when growth slows and wet cold soil invites root problems.
Feeding
Feed in early spring and again in mid-summer with a fertiliser formulated for azaleas, camellias or gardenias. Those blends are acidic and include the trace elements ixora needs. Avoid general-purpose fertilisers high in lime or phosphorus.
Pruning
Prune lightly after the main flush of flowering, usually late autumn in the subtropics. Ixora flowers on new growth, so a trim encourages the next round of buds. Tip prune young plants regularly to build density from the base. Older leggy plants can be cut back hard in early spring and will reshoot from bare wood, though they will skip a flowering cycle.
Common problems and fixes
- Yellow leaves with green veins is iron chlorosis, and it is by far the most common ixora complaint in Australia. It means the soil is too alkaline for the plant to take up iron. Apply iron chelates for a quick response and correct the pH for a lasting one. Do not simply add more fertiliser.
- Few or no flowers usually means too much shade, or pruning at the wrong time and removing the buds. Check it gets four or more hours of sun.
- Sooty mould with ants points to scale or mealybug underneath the leaves. Treat with horticultural oil and the mould clears as the pest goes.
- Leaf drop after cold weather is frost damage. Wait until spring, then prune back to live wood.
- Brown leaf edges generally means the plant dried out. Improve mulching and water more consistently in summer.
Using ixora in the garden
Compact ixora makes an excellent low hedge along a driveway or path, holding colour where a clipped green hedge would be plain. It suits tropical and resort-style planting alongside cordylines, palms and gingers, and works well in mass plantings where a block of continuous colour is wanted. In a mixed bed it sits comfortably in front of taller screening shrubs and behind groundcovers.
Frequently asked questions
Will ixora grow in Melbourne or Adelaide?
Not reliably in the ground. Ixora is frost tender and suffers below about 5°C, so cold-winter cities will damage or kill it outdoors. Grow it in a pot that can move to a sheltered spot over winter, or choose a hardier flowering shrub for those climates.
Why are my ixora leaves turning yellow?
Almost always iron chlorosis caused by soil that is too alkaline. Look for yellow leaves with green veins still showing. Apply iron chelates for a fast correction, then lower the pH with an acidic mulch and an azalea and camellia fertiliser so the problem does not return.
How often does ixora flower?
In subtropical Brisbane and northern NSW it flowers from spring through autumn in repeated flushes. In tropical Queensland and Darwin it flowers close to year-round. Further south the flowering window narrows to the warmest months.
How far apart should I plant ixora for a hedge?
Space compact varieties 500-600 mm apart for a continuous low hedge, and the larger Malay types about one metre apart for an informal screen. Tip prune through the first year to build density from the base.
Does ixora need full sun?
It flowers best with at least four hours of direct sun. It will grow in light shade but produces noticeably fewer flower heads. In tropical regions some afternoon shade keeps the foliage a deeper green without costing many flowers.
Is ixora suitable for pots?
Yes, and the compact varieties are well suited to it. Use an azalea and camellia mix in a pot at least 400 mm wide. Containers are the sensible option in alkaline soils such as Perth's sands, and anywhere the plant needs to shelter over winter.
Ready to plant?
We grow compact and Malay ixora varieties suited to Australian gardens, from low hedging forms to larger feature shrubs. Browse our shrubs collection, or the tropical plants range if you are building a resort-style garden.
Planting a warm-climate garden? See our guide to designing a tropical garden that looks lush year-round, and growing gardenias, which want the same acidic soil and pair naturally with ixora.
