Drive through any established suburb in Brisbane, Sydney or Perth and the best hedge on the street is probably a murraya. Murraya paniculata, known almost everywhere as mock orange, combines dense glossy foliage, waves of white orange-blossom scented flowers through the warm months, and a tolerance for clipping that borders on enthusiasm. It is the closest thing to a foolproof formal hedge in warm Australian climates - with two caveats worth knowing before you plant a whole boundary of it.
Quick facts
| Detail | What to expect in Australia |
|---|---|
| Botanical name | Murraya paniculata |
| Common names | Mock orange, orange jessamine |
| Unclipped size | 3-4 m tall, 2-3 m wide |
| As a hedge | Easily held at 1-2.5 m |
| Position | Full sun to part shade |
| Soil | Well drained. Tolerates sand and clay if not waterlogged |
| Flowering | Spring to autumn, often several flushes after rain |
| Frost | Tender when young. Established plants take light frost |
| Best climates | Brisbane, coastal NSW, Sydney, Darwin, Perth |
Two things to know first
It can self-seed into bushland
Murraya produces small red berries that birds eat and distribute, and it has naturalised in parts of coastal Queensland and northern New South Wales, where it is regarded as an environmental weed. In a suburban garden well away from remnant bushland this is not a practical concern, particularly on a clipped hedge that rarely gets the chance to fruit. If you are planting near a reserve, creek line or bushland boundary, check your local council's guidance first.
It is a citrus family plant
Murraya belongs to the same family as citrus and is a favoured host of the Asian citrus psyllid, an insect that spreads a serious citrus disease. Australia is currently free of both, and biosecurity authorities keep a close eye on murraya for that reason. Restrictions on movement between states and regions do exist and change over time, so buy from an Australian nursery that ships legally into your area rather than moving plants around yourself.
Neither point makes murraya a bad choice for most gardens. They are simply worth knowing before you commit to sixty metres of it.
Which variety to plant
| Variety | Unclipped size | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Murraya paniculata (species) | 3-4 m | Tall hedges and screens, 2-3 m |
| Sweet Privacy | 3-4 m | Dense screening, strong flowering |
| Lush & Thin | 3 m x 1 m | Narrow hedges where width is limited |
| Min a Min | 1-1.5 m | Low hedges, borders, small gardens |
| Hip High | 1 m | Very low formal edging |
Most people plant the straight species and clip it, which works well. For a narrow boundary where a normal hedge would push into a path, Lush & Thin holds about a metre wide. For a low border, Min a Min and Hip High save constant cutting.
Where it grows in Australia
- Brisbane, Gold and Sunshine Coasts, northern NSW - ideal. Flowers repeatedly through the warm months.
- Sydney - excellent, one of the most planted formal hedges in the city.
- Darwin and tropical Queensland - thrives, with the longest flowering season.
- Perth - very good in sandy free-draining soil, given summer water.
- Adelaide - workable in a warm sheltered position.
- Melbourne, Canberra and inland - marginal. Young plants are frost tender and growth is slow. A cold-hardy alternative is usually the better call.
Planting a murraya hedge
- Plant in spring or early autumn, avoiding midsummer and cold snaps.
- Full sun gives the most flowers. It grows in part shade but blooms less and stays more open.
- Space at 600-800 mm for a dense hedge. Closer wastes plants; wider takes longer to close.
- Drainage is the one non-negotiable. Murraya rots in wet soil. On clay, plant on a raised mound and improve with compost and gypsum.
- Mulch to 75 mm along the row, kept off the stems.
- Water deeply twice a week through the first summer, then reduce as it establishes.
Pruning and keeping it dense
Murraya responds to clipping better than almost any other warm-climate hedge and will reshoot from bare wood, which makes it forgiving of mistakes. Trim two or three times through the growing season rather than once hard - typically after the main spring flowering, again in midsummer, and lightly in early autumn.
Keep the base wider than the top. A hedge clipped vertical or narrower at the bottom loses light down low and goes bare at the base, which is the most common complaint about established murraya hedges and is entirely a pruning fault.
Trimming does remove flower buds, so there is a genuine trade-off between a crisply formal hedge and a heavily scented one. Many gardeners let it flower in spring and shape it immediately afterwards.
Ongoing care
Watering
Regular deep watering through the first two summers, then only in extended dry spells. Established murraya is reasonably drought tolerant, though hedges in Perth's sandy soil need more than those in Brisbane clay loam.
Feeding
A clipped hedge is constantly regrowing and feeds heavily. Apply a controlled-release or organic fertiliser in early spring and again in midsummer. Yellowing leaves on an established hedge usually mean hunger rather than disease.
Common problems and fixes
- Yellow leaves with green veins is iron or manganese deficiency, common in alkaline or very sandy soils. Treat with chelated iron and mulch with compost.
- Bare base on an established hedge means the sides were clipped vertical or inward. Taper the hedge wider at the bottom and let light back in.
- Sooty mould with sticky leaves follows scale or aphids. Treat the insect with horticultural oil and the mould clears by itself.
- Few or no flowers is usually over-trimming, since buds form on new growth that gets cut off. Let it run through spring before shaping.
- Sudden collapse of one or more plants is nearly always root rot from poor drainage.
- Leaf drop after cold is frost damage. Wait until spring and prune to live wood.
Frequently asked questions
How fast does murraya grow?
Moderately fast in warm climates - around 300 to 500 mm a year once established. A hedge planted from 200 mm pots at 600 mm spacing typically closes into a solid screen in about two years in Brisbane or Sydney, longer in cooler districts.
How far apart should I plant a murraya hedge?
600 to 800 millimetres apart for a dense formal hedge. Low varieties such as Min a Min go closer at around 400 mm. Individual specimen plants need two to three metres.
Why is my murraya hedge bare at the bottom?
Almost always because the sides have been clipped straight up or narrower at the base, so light cannot reach the lower foliage. Taper the hedge so it is widest at the bottom, and it will fill in over a season or two.
Does murraya have invasive roots?
Not particularly. The roots are fibrous rather than aggressive, and it is widely planted close to fences and paths. Allow a metre from paving and avoid planting directly over pipes as a matter of routine.
Will murraya grow in Melbourne?
Marginally. Young plants are frost tender and growth is noticeably slower in cool climates. In Melbourne, Canberra or inland districts a hardier hedging plant will give a better result with less trouble.
Is murraya a weed in Australia?
It has naturalised in parts of coastal Queensland and northern New South Wales, where birds spread the berries into bushland, and it is treated as an environmental weed in those areas. In a clipped suburban hedge away from bushland it rarely fruits, but check council guidance if you are planting near a reserve or creek.
Ready to plant?
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Comparing hedges? See how to create a great hedge and fast growing hedges for Australian gardens.
