A water lily is the plant that turns a container of water into a pond. Its round pads lie flat on the surface, and from spring to autumn it pushes up a succession of flowers in white, yellow, pink, apricot or red that open each morning and close each afternoon. They need three things: sun, still water and the right depth. You do not need a large pond, either. A glazed bowl on a sunny patio will grow a small water lily well. This guide covers choosing, planting and caring for water lilies, and the plants to grow beside them.
Quick facts
| Feature | Detail |
|---|---|
| Botanical name | Nymphaea hybrids; the kinds in this guide are hardy water lilies |
| Type | Aquatic perennial growing from a rhizome, dormant in winter |
| Spread | 60 cm for small kinds to 1.5 m or more across the surface for vigorous kinds |
| Position | Full sun, at least six hours a day |
| Water | Still or very slow moving, away from fountains and waterfalls |
| Depth | 15 to 30 cm of water over the crown for small kinds; 30 to 60 cm for larger kinds |
| Climate | All of Australia outside the hottest tropics; frost hardy |
| Flowers | Mid spring to autumn; each flower lasts three to four days |
| Soil | Heavy loam or clay-based garden soil in a planting basket; never potting mix |
Choosing a water lily
There are two groups of water lily, and it helps to know which you are buying. Hardy water lilies float their flowers on or just above the surface, flower by day, and grow from a thick rhizome that creeps sideways through the mud. They die back in winter and return in spring, and they grow in every Australian climate from Tasmania to the subtropics. Tropical water lilies hold their flowers high above the water on stiff stalks, come in blues and purples that hardy lilies lack, and need warm water, above about 21 degrees, to grow.
The water lilies we sell are hardy kinds, so they suit ponds and bowls throughout the country and come back year after year.
Each is sold as a single plant in a 200mm pot, and all are in the water and pond plant collection. Match the vigour of the lily to the size of your pond.
For bowls and small ponds. Perrys Baby Red is a compact lily with deep red, cup-shaped flowers and small dark pads. It flowers freely and is the natural choice for a patio water bowl. Sioux is a changeable lily: each flower opens buff yellow, deepens to peachy orange and finishes coppery red over three or four days, above olive pads mottled with purple-brown. It spreads to about 1 to 1.2 m.
For medium ponds. Gloriosa is a classic red with large, fragrant flowers, a long season and moderate growth. Marliacea Chromatella has soft canary-yellow flowers over pads splashed with bronze. It is one of the most dependable lilies of all and flowers in a little less sun than most.
For larger ponds and dams. Marliacea Carnea is a vigorous, free-flowering lily with large, pale shell-pink flowers. Darwin carries very double, peony-like blooms, pale pink on the outside and rich pink at the heart, and spreads to 1.5 m.
Sun, still water and depth
Sun. Water lilies need at least six hours of direct sun a day to flower. In less, they grow leaves and few blooms. Site the pond or bowl in the open, away from overhanging trees, which also drop leaves that foul the water.
Still water. Splashing from a fountain or the current from a waterfall wets the upper surface of the pads, which rots them, and the plant weakens. In a pond with moving water, plant the lilies at the calm end.
Depth. Depth is measured from the top of the soil in the planting basket to the water surface. Small kinds want 15 to 30 cm of water over the crown, and medium and large kinds 30 to 60 cm. Too shallow and the water overheats in summer. Too deep and the young leaves run out of energy before they reach the light. In a deep pond, stand the basket on bricks to bring it to the right level.
How to plant a water lily
Water lilies are planted in a container that sits on the bottom of the pond, which makes dividing and feeding simple.
The container. Use an aquatic planting basket or a wide, shallow plastic pot or tub. Width matters more than depth, because the rhizome travels sideways: 30 to 40 cm wide and 15 to 20 cm deep suits most lilies. Line a mesh basket with hessian so the soil stays in.
The soil. Use heavy garden loam or clay-based topsoil, free of weeds and fresh manure. Do not use potting mix. It is full of bark that floats out, clouds the water and feeds algae. Push two or three slow-release aquatic fertiliser tablets deep into the soil.
Planting. Lay the rhizome on the soil at about 45 degrees, with the cut end against the side of the container and the growing tip pointing up and towards the centre, so it has room to travel. Firm soil around it, leaving the growing tip just clear of the surface. Never bury the tip. Cover the soil with 2 cm of washed gravel or coarse sand to hold it down and stop fish stirring it up.
Lowering. Water the container well first so air escapes, then lower it gently into the pond. Start a small plant with only 10 to 15 cm of water over the crown, standing the basket on bricks, and move it deeper in stages as the leaf stalks lengthen.
The best planting time is spring through early summer, when the water is warming.
A water lily in a bowl
For a courtyard or balcony, a water bowl is the simplest water garden there is. Choose a watertight glazed pot or bowl with no drainage hole, at least 60 cm wide and 30 cm deep. Stand it in full sun, on a surface that can take the weight, since a full bowl is very heavy. Our guide to choosing the right size pot explains pot sizes and weights.
Plant a small lily such as Perrys Baby Red in a basket as described above and sit it on the bottom. Add one or two upright plants in their own small pots, standing on bricks at the edge so their rims are just under water, and fill with water.
Top up the bowl as it evaporates, weekly in summer. To prevent mosquitoes breeding, add a few small native fish suited to your district, such as Pacific blue-eyes or pygmy perch, which eat the wrigglers. Do not use gambusia, sometimes sold as mosquito fish: it is a declared pest fish that harms native frogs and fish.
Plants to grow with water lilies
A pond stays clearest with lilies covering half to two thirds of the surface to shade out algae, and upright plants around the margins. Good marginal companions from our range include pickerel rush, with glossy leaves and spikes of blue flowers in summer, dwarf papyrus, whose fine green heads suit bowls and small ponds, and common nardoo, a native water fern with floating four-leaf clover fronds.
Grow marginals in their own pots on a shelf or on bricks, with the pot rim at or just below the water surface. Our guide to the best pond plants for Australian gardens sets out which plant goes in which zone, from shallow water to the damp ground around the pond. For bold foliage in boggy soil nearby, see the elephant ears and canna lilies.
Keep pond plants out of waterways. Some aquatic plants are serious weeds of Australian rivers and wetlands. Never tip pond water, plants or fish into a creek, dam, drain or stormwater. Compost or bin all trimmings, and keep vigorous plants in containers.
Safety. In most states and territories, any body of water more than 300 mm deep must have a compliant child safety barrier. Check your local council's rules before you build a pond or fill a large bowl, and never leave young children unsupervised near water of any depth.
Care through the year
Spring. As new leaves appear, push fresh fertiliser tablets into the soil. Divide crowded plants now.
Summer. Twist off yellowing pads and finished flowers at the base of their stalks every week or two, before they sink and rot. Feed again in midsummer. Top up the water.
Autumn and winter. Flowering slows as the water cools. Stop feeding and keep removing dying leaves. Hardy lilies then rest below the surface until spring. Leave them where they are.
Dividing. Every two to three years, when pads crowd and stand up out of the water and flowering drops, lift the basket in spring. Wash off the soil, cut the rhizome into pieces 10 to 15 cm long, each with a growing tip, discard the old woody centre, and replant the best pieces in fresh soil.
Common problems and fixes
Leaves but no flowers. Not enough sun is the usual reason. The others are a hungry plant, an overcrowded basket that needs dividing, water that is too deep, or splashing from a fountain.
Green water. Algae thrive on sunlight and nutrients. Cover more of the surface with lily pads, remove dead leaves and do not overfeed fish. A new pond usually clears within a few weeks.
Small insects clustered on pads and buds. Aphids. Hose them into the water for the fish, or hold the leaves under water for a day with a piece of mesh. Do not use insecticides on or near a pond: they kill fish, frogs and pond life.
Frequently asked questions
How deep should the water be for a water lily?
Measured from the soil in the planting basket to the surface, 15 to 30 cm for small water lilies and 30 to 60 cm for medium and large kinds.
Can I grow a water lily in a pot or bowl?
Yes. Use a watertight bowl at least 60 cm wide and 30 cm deep in full sun, and choose a small-growing water lily planted in its own basket of heavy soil.
Do water lilies need full sun?
Yes. They need at least six hours of direct sun a day to flower well. In shade they produce leaves and very few flowers.
What soil do water lilies need?
Heavy garden loam or clay-based topsoil, topped with gravel. Do not use potting mix, which floats, clouds the water and feeds algae.
Do water lilies die back in winter?
Hardy water lilies do. They rest on the bottom through winter and send up new pads in spring. Leave them in the pond.
Ready to plant?
Choose your lilies and their companions from the water and pond plant collection, and see the plants for wet and high-water positions for the ground around the pond. If frogs and birds are the aim, our guide to designing a garden to attract wildlife is a good next read. Every plant is sourced from partner nurseries around Australia and delivered Australia wide.
Sources
Aquatic weeds and responsible disposal: Weeds Australia. Gambusia as a pest fish: NSW Department of Primary Industries. Water lily cultivation: Royal Horticultural Society. Pool and pond barrier rules: Royal Life Saving Australia.
