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Wisteria

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Wisteria

Wisteria is the great spring climber: hanging chains of fragrant flowers in lilac, purple or white, followed by soft green foliage that shades a pergola through summer. It is long lived and vigorous, so it needs a strong support and a regular prune. Choose by species, because the Chinese, Japanese, American and silky forms differ in vigour, flower length and how well they suit a smaller space.

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How to choose a wisteria

The Chinese Wisteria is the most vigorous and the first to flower, with shorter clusters that open all at once. The White Chinese Wisteria is the same plant in white. The Japanese Wisteria opens later with long, trailing racemes, and forms such as the Kuchi Beni Japanese Wisteria and the double flowered forms offer different colour and flower form.

For a smaller garden the Amethyst Falls American Wisteria is less rampant and flowers young. Silky wisteria, such as the Shiro Kapitan White Silky Wisteria, is also tidy and fragrant.

Where wisteria grows

Wisteria likes cool to temperate climates and does best where winters are properly cold, which sets its flower buds. It also grows in warm temperate and subtropical gardens, though flowering can be lighter. It needs full sun and a very sturdy structure: an established Chinese or Japanese wisteria is heavy and will pull down a flimsy trellis. Keep it away from gutters, roof tiles and house timber.

Wisteria is one of many climbers for walls and arbours; for a cool, seasonal garden see also our deciduous shrubs.

Wisteria can also be trained as a free standing standard on a stout stake, which suits a small garden or a formal entry. Whichever way you grow it, decide the support first, because wisteria twines and will strangle a thin post or a light timber lattice over time.

Planting and spacing

Plant in autumn or spring in well drained soil with plenty of sun. Set the plant against a pergola post, wall or wire framework, and tie the main stems on as they grow. Allow at least three metres between plants for the larger species, and more for a Japanese wisteria on a long pergola.

Care basics

Wisteria needs two prunes a year. In late summer cut the long whippy shoots back to about five leaves. In winter cut those same shoots back again to two or three buds, which keeps the plant compact and encourages flowers. Go easy on nitrogen fertiliser, which grows leaf at the cost of blooms. Water well while the plant is young; established plants are quite tolerant of dry spells.

All parts of wisteria, especially the seeds and pods, are poisonous if eaten, so keep it in mind around children and pets.

Newly planted wisteria can sit for a season or two before it puts on real growth, so be patient. Once settled it can live for decades and is one of the longest lived garden climbers.

Common questions

Why is my wisteria not flowering?

Common causes are youth, too much nitrogen, too little sun or missing the summer and winter prunes. Some plants take several years to flower.

How fast does wisteria grow?

Quickly once established, with stems that can add several metres in a season. Regular pruning keeps it in bounds.

Is wisteria poisonous?

Yes. The seeds and pods are poisonous if eaten, and the rest of the plant can cause illness too.

Can wisteria grow in a pot?

For some years, particularly the American forms, if the pot is large and the plant is pruned hard. Long term it does best in the ground.

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