Waratahs

How to choose a waratah

The NSW Waratah is the classic species with deep red heads in spring. Hybrids are bred for easier culture and longer flowering: the Corroboree Waratah, the Braidwood Brilliant Waratah and the Shady Lady Crimson Waratah are good starting points, the last being known for tolerating a little more shade.

The Queensland Waratah Tree is a different plant: Alloxylon flammeum, a rainforest tree rather than a Telopea. It grows into a tall, upright tree with red tubular flowers in clusters, and it suits warmer, wetter gardens.

Where waratahs grow

Telopea waratahs come from cool, high rainfall country and do poorly in humid subtropical and tropical gardens, where root diseases and heat shorten their lives. They suit cool and mild temperate climates with good drainage, morning sun and cool roots. The Queensland Waratah Tree is the better choice for warm, humid gardens along the east coast.

For other plants that thrive in similar conditions, browse our Australian natives, banksias and grevilleas.

The hybrids matter in the garden. Named waratahs are propagated so that the flower colour, vigour and flowering time are predictable, and several are more tolerant of the heavier soils and warmer summers of garden beds than the straight species. The species itself is slower and more particular, but it is the plant most people picture when they think of a waratah, with a flower head that can be the size of a fist or larger.

Waratahs make strong cut flowers. A single stem lasts well in a vase, and removing it from the plant in this way doubles as the annual prune.

Planting and spacing

Waratahs need a sunny to lightly shaded position with excellent drainage. Raise the planting into a mound in heavy soil, and never use rich compost or manure in the hole. Space Telopea plants about two metres apart. Mulch with coarse organic matter to keep the roots cool, and keep the mulch off the stem.

Care basics

Water deeply but not too often, and never let the roots sit wet. Use a low phosphorus native fertiliser, since phosphorus can harm these plants. Prune immediately after flowering by cutting the flower stem back to a strong leafy shoot, which also gives you cut flowers for the vase.

Give waratahs several seasons to settle. They often put on little visible growth in the first year while the root system builds, then speed up. A young plant in its first spring may produce only a flower or two, with more in later years.

Common questions

When do waratahs flower?

The NSW Waratah flowers in spring, mainly from September to November. Some hybrids flower over a longer period.

Can I grow a waratah in a pot?

Yes, in a large pot of free draining native potting mix, which gives you control over drainage. Potted plants need regular watering in summer.

Why do waratahs die suddenly?

Most often from poor drainage, root rot in warm wet weather, or excess phosphorus or fertiliser. Good drainage and a cool root zone prevent most losses.

Do waratahs attract birds?

Yes. Honeyeaters feed heavily on the nectar, and the flowers are one of the most reliable bird plants in a native garden.