Atropurpureum is the purple leaf Japanese maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum') most Australian gardens should start with. The finely cut leaves open deep burgundy in spring, hold that colour through summer, then turn scarlet before they drop in autumn. It reaches around 4m tall and 3.5m wide over about fifteen years, and the roots are non-invasive, so it can sit near paving or a pool fence without causing trouble later.
Why you'll love it
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Colour in three acts. Burgundy new growth, dark red summer foliage, then a real autumn display.
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A small tree that stays small. About 4m in fifteen years, slowly larger after that. You are not planting a problem for the next owner.
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Roots that behave. Non-invasive roots let it go close to a path, a driveway edge or a pool surround where a larger tree could not.
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Safe around pets. It is not toxic to cats or dogs, which matters for a feature tree in the part of the garden the animals use.
Where it works best
As a single feature. Plant it where you look at it: outside a window, at the end of a lawn, beside a seating area. Underplant with something low and green so the leaf colour has a foil.
Pots, balconies and courtyards. Use a pot at least 500mm across with free draining mix. A matched pair either side of a doorway works well.
Growing Japanese maple in Australia
Position and climate. Full sun in cool temperate gardens, where it colours best, and morning sun with afternoon shade in warm temperate districts. Shelter from hot dry wind matters more than anything else, because wind is what turns leaf edges brown by January. It is frost hardy, and winter chill drives the autumn colour, so this is not a tree for tropical or humid subtropical gardens.
Soil. Free draining, humus rich and slightly acidic. Work compost through the planting area, avoid lime, and mulch 75mm deep, kept off the trunk. Wet, poorly drained clay is the fastest way to lose one.
Water. Consistent rather than heavy. Keep the root zone evenly moist through the first two summers, and never let an established tree go bone dry in a heatwave. A potted tree needs checking every second day in hot weather.
Feeding and pruning. A light controlled release fertiliser in early spring is enough. Prune only in late autumn or winter while it is dormant, and only to remove crossing or damaged branches. Maples bleed heavily if cut in spring.
What to expect when it arrives
It is grown in six sizes, from 300mm and 400mm pots through 500mm, 45L, 100L and 200L. The smaller pots are young, with a clear leader and light branching, and they are the value entry point if you can wait a few seasons. The 45L and 100L trees have a formed head, and the 200L is a mature specimen.
This is a deciduous tree, so between late autumn and early spring it arrives as a bare framework of branches, which is normal and the best time to plant. Trees are delivered Australia wide, with delivery from $29.95. Advanced and large stock is freighted at cost, and every plant is covered by our 30 day healthy plant guarantee.
Plant care guides and related reading
Common questions
Why do the leaf edges go brown in summer?
That is wind and heat scorch, not disease. Hot dry wind pulls moisture from the leaf faster than the roots replace it. Shelter, afternoon shade and deep mulch prevent most of it.
Can I keep it in a pot long term?
Yes, and it is one of the best trees for it. Use a pot at least 500mm across, water more often than you would in the ground, and root prune every three to four years.
How big will it actually get?
Around 4m tall and 3.5m wide in about fifteen years, then slowly larger. Growth is genuinely slow, so expect steady progress rather than a metre a year.