Star Jasmine

Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is the climber to plant when you want a fence covered, a bank held and the garden perfumed for six weeks in spring. Given wires or a trellis it twines to about 4m and spreads roughly 2m; left flat on the ground it becomes a dense evergreen groundcover instead. It grows in more of Australia than almost anything else we sell, from the tropics to cool temperate and Mediterranean gardens.

Why you'll love it

• Perfume that carries. The spring flush scents a whole courtyard, and in warm gardens it often repeats lightly through summer.
• Two plants in one. On a support it climbs. On flat ground or a slope it runs sideways into a groundcover about 300mm deep.
• It grows almost anywhere. Frost hardy once established, drought tolerant once the roots are down, and comfortable in coastal salt and humidity.
• It twines, it does not drill. No aerial roots or sucker pads, so it will not damage mortar the way an ivy can.

Where it works best

Fences, screens and pergolas. Run three or four horizontal wires 300mm apart and plant 1m apart along the base. At that spacing the stems knit into full cover without the tangle crowding causes.

Slopes, banks and mass planting. Planted 1m apart and left unsupported it spreads and roots down as it goes, which suits a bank too steep to mow, or a carpet under established trees.

Growing star jasmine in Australia

Position and climate. Full sun gives the heaviest flowering. Part shade keeps the plant green and healthy but you will see fewer flowers. It suits tropical, subtropical, warm temperate, cool temperate and Mediterranean gardens, and a young plant wants shelter through its first winter in cold districts.

Soil and water. Any reasonably drained soil, though it will sulk in ground that stays boggy. On clay, mound the planting position and work compost through. Deep soak twice a week through the first summer, then reduce; established plants handle dry spells but flower better with water in spring.

Feeding and pruning. A controlled release fertiliser in early spring is enough for the year. Shear the plant back straight after flowering, because next season's buds form on the growth that follows. Old plants build a woody thatch and can be cut back hard.

The sap. Cut stems bleed a milky sap that can irritate skin, eyes and mouths, so wear gloves when you prune and keep the offcuts away from pets and small children.

What to expect when it arrives

It is grown in tube, 140mm, 180mm, 200mm, 250mm, 300mm and 400mm, with several smaller sizes in multipacks, which is the practical way to buy for a long fence. Tube and 140mm plants are young and quick to catch up; the 300mm and 400mm usually arrive trained on a stake with several runners.

Plants are packed to travel upright and delivered Australia wide, with delivery from $29.95. Advanced and large stock is freighted at cost. Expect obvious runners in the first warm spell, and full cover of a fence panel in two to three seasons. Every plant is covered by our 30 day healthy plant guarantee.

Plant care guides and related reading

• Browse the full range of climbing plants
• Compare groundcovers for banks and mass planting
• More perfumed plants for near a doorway
• Preparing a garden bed before planting

Common questions

How many plants do I need for my fence?

One per metre, with wires or mesh to climb. A 10m boundary takes ten plants and reads as solid green in two to three seasons.

Will it damage my wall?

No. It twines rather than clinging with roots or pads, so it will not lift render or mortar. That does mean a bare brick wall needs wires or a trellis fixed to it first.

Is it safe around pets?

Treat it as one to keep out of reach. The milky sap can irritate skin and mouths, so it is not a plant for a run where a dog chews everything.

Why is mine green but not flowering?

Too much shade, or a hard prune at the wrong time.