Rojo Congo Philodendron

Rojo Congo Philodendron (Philodendron 'Rojo Congo') is indoor presence without fuss: a self supporting clump around 1.2m tall and 1.2m across, with broad glossy leaves that emerge deep burgundy and settle to dark green on wine coloured stems. It needs no stake and no training, unlike the climbing philodendrons.

Why you'll love it

• It stands on its own. Upright and self supporting, so there is no moss pole and no vine escaping across the wall.
• New leaves arrive red. Each leaf unfurls deep burgundy and darkens over a few weeks, so colour shifts through the warmer months.
• It forgives a missed watering. Thick stems and leathery leaves hold reserves, so it copes with dry indoor air better than most tropical foliage.
• Real scale from one pot. At 1.2m by 1.2m one plant does the work of several smaller pots.

Where it works best

Indoors. Where most Rojo Congos live: bright rooms, offices, entries and stairwells. Inside your climate stops mattering, which suits a plant this frost tender.

Pots, balconies and courtyards. Outdoors it needs a warm, sheltered, frost free spot in tropical, subtropical or warm temperate gardens. A pot 400mm or wider holds it for years.

Mass planting under trees. In frost free gardens it makes an understorey block in dappled shade. Plant 1m apart and it closes over in two to three seasons.

One caveat: philodendrons contain calcium oxalate crystals and are toxic to cats and dogs if chewed. If your pet samples foliage, keep this one raised.

Growing Rojo Congo Philodendron in Australia

Position and climate. Bright indirect light gives the best leaf size and the strongest red on new growth, and lower light slows it. Outdoors it is strictly for tropical, subtropical and warm temperate gardens, in part shade out of afternoon sun. It is frost tender, so in cool temperate and Mediterranean regions keep it indoors or under cover for winter.

Soil. A quality potting mix opened up with perlite or bark, in a pot with a working drainage hole. Waterlogged roots are the fastest way to lose one.

Water and feed. Water when the top few centimetres of mix have dried, weekly in summer and every two to three weeks over winter, and tip out the saucer. Feed a slow release foliage fertiliser in early spring and mid summer.

Pruning. Cut older lower leaves off at the base as they yellow to keep the clump tidy. Dust the leaves now and then.

What to expect when it arrives

It comes in five sizes: tube stock, 140mm in packs of ten, 200mm in packs of six, 250mm in packs of three and single 300mm plants. Tube and 140mm plants are young and take a season or two to look like the photographs. The 250mm and 300mm plants arrive already clumped and are the ones for immediate presence.

Broad soft leaves show transit stress, so expect a bent leaf or a marked edge on arrival. Give it a week somewhere bright and indirect before the first proper water, then expect new growth within four to six weeks. Delivered Australia wide, with delivery from $29.95. Every plant carries our 30 day healthy plant guarantee.

Plant care guides and related reading

• How to keep your indoor plants alive
• Browse the indoor plant range
• Low light indoor plant options
• Guide to growing exotic plants indoors

Common questions

Is it safe around cats and dogs?

No. Like other philodendrons it contains calcium oxalate, toxic to cats and dogs if the leaves are chewed, causing drooling, mouth irritation and vomiting. Keep it out of reach if your pet chews foliage.

Does it need a moss pole?

No. It is a self heading philodendron rather than a climber, so it builds an upright clump on its own. If it leans it is reaching for light, so turn the pot every few weeks.

Why are the new leaves not red?

Light. The burgundy tone develops in bright indirect light, and in a dim corner the leaves emerge green and stay green.