Juncea Bird of Paradise

Juncea Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia juncea) trades leaves for pure architecture. Instead of the broad paddles of a common bird of paradise it throws up a fountain of narrow cylindrical stems to about 1.8m tall and 1.2m across, and the familiar orange and blue crane flowers appear among them. It is the collector's strelitzia, and one of the best structural plants going for a hot, sunny position.

Why you'll love it

• Sculpture without bulk. Leafless upright stems give a strong vertical form in a footprint of just over a metre.
• The same extraordinary flowers. Orange and blue crane shaped blooms held clear of the stems, and honeyeaters work them for nectar.
• Heat, drought and salt are all fine. It shrugs off heat reflected from paving, tolerates long dry spells once established, and stands up to coastal salt.
• Nothing to tatter. Broad leaved bird of paradise shreds in wind and looks tired beside a pool. Cylindrical stems have nothing to tear.
• Content in a pot. It flowers better with crowded roots, so a pot it can stay in for years is a feature rather than a compromise.

Where it works best

Feature planting. One clump against a rendered wall or a dark backdrop is enough, and the shadows the stems throw are half the appeal.

Pots, balconies and courtyards. Use a pot 400mm or wider with a free draining mix. Its tolerance of heat and reflected light suits an exposed balcony.

Poolside and coastal gardens. No shedding leaves, no litter in the water, and salt does not bother it.

Growing Juncea Bird of Paradise in Australia

Position and climate. Full sun, because flowering drops away sharply in shade. It suits tropical, subtropical, warm temperate and Mediterranean gardens, and takes light frost only once established. In cool inland and southern gardens grow it in a pot and move it under eaves for winter.

Soil. Free draining above all. Sandy loam is ideal, and on clay it needs a raised bed or mound. In pots use a quality mix opened up with coarse sand and a working drainage hole.

Water and feed. Water weekly through the first two summers while the clump builds, then only in dry spells. Feed a complete slow release fertiliser in early spring and again mid summer, since flowering is hungry work.

Pruning and division. There is no pruning as such. Cut spent flower stems and damaged stems down at the base. Resist dividing a healthy clump, because disturbance sets flowering back by years.

What to expect when it arrives

We grow it in two sizes, and the gap between them tells you something. A tube is a young division with a few short stems, and it is slow: expect several years before it reaches flowering size. The 300mm plant is an established clump with real height, priced for the years already invested in it.

Plants are packed to travel upright and delivered Australia wide, with delivery from $29.95. Expect a month of stillness after planting while the thick roots settle, then new stems from the centre of the clump. Every plant carries our 30 day healthy plant guarantee.

Plant care guides and related reading

• Tips for growing strelitzia
• The poolside planting range
• Architectural plants for designer gardens
• Plants that suit balconies

Common questions

Is it safe around cats and dogs?

No. All strelitzia are toxic to pets, and chewing the stems or flowers can cause drooling, vomiting and stomach upset. Keep it in a raised pot or a bed your animals do not browse.

How long until it flowers?

It is slow growing, so tube stock commonly takes several years to build a clump large enough to flower. An established 300mm plant is much closer.

Can I grow it in a pot permanently?

Yes, and it is arguably the best way to grow it. Use 400mm or wider, keep the mix free draining, and leave it alone. Crowded roots encourage flowering, so repot rarely.