Penstemon ‘Russian River’

Russian River penstemon (Penstemon 'Russian River') flowers from spring through to autumn, throwing up spires of deep wine purple tubular blooms above a tidy clump about 90cm tall and 60cm wide. It sits in the middle of a border without swamping its neighbours, and asks for little beyond full sun and one hard cutback a year.

Why you'll love it

• A flowering season measured in months. Spires open in spring and keep coming into autumn, especially if you deadhead spent stems.
• It stays where you put it. At 90cm by 60cm it holds a neat clump instead of sprawling over the path.
• Birds and pollinators find it. Tubular flowers are built for nectar feeders, so honeyeaters and butterflies both work the plant.
• Hardy at both ends of the thermometer. Frost hardy through cool temperate winters, heat tolerant in summer, and drought tolerant once established.

Where it works best

Borders and edging. Set it in the middle rank of a mixed border so the spires read against lower foliage. Plants 50cm apart give a continuous ribbon of colour.

Mass planting. Plant 50cm apart in drifts of five or more. Perennials like this look accidental in ones and twos and deliberate in groups.

Pots. One plant fills a 300mm to 400mm container. Pots dry fast, so this is where drought tolerance does not excuse you from watering.

Growing Russian River penstemon in Australia

Position and climate. Full sun, all day if you can manage it. It belongs in warm temperate, cool temperate and Mediterranean gardens: Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth, Canberra and the tablelands all suit it. Humid subtropical summers are harder on it, because warm wet nights are where penstemons struggle.

Soil. Free draining is the one non-negotiable, and sandy or gravelly loam is ideal. On heavy clay, plant on a raised mound with compost worked through, then mulch lightly and clear of the crown.

Water and feed. Deep water twice a week through the first summer, then every week or two once the roots are down. A handful of complete slow release fertiliser in early spring is enough. Heavy nitrogen gives soft growth and fewer flowers.

Pruning. Deadhead spent spires through the season to keep new buds coming. After the last autumn flush, cut the whole plant back by about half. That is what keeps the clump compact rather than woody and open at the base.

What to expect when it arrives

This one is sold as tube stock: young plants, usually a single small crown carrying a few stems. They travel well because there is little top growth to knock about, and they are the sensible way to buy a perennial you plan to plant in drifts.

Expect a season of building before the display peaks, with light flowering in the first summer and a proper show in the second. Delivered Australia wide, delivery from $29.95, with a minimum order of $300 before delivery. Every plant carries our 30 day healthy plant guarantee.

Plant care guides and related reading

• Perennials for an Australian cottage garden
• Choosing edging plants for a border
• Browse the wider flowering plants range
• More plants for bees and butterflies

Common questions

How far apart should I plant it?

Fifty centimetres apart for mass planting or a continuous border. At that spacing the clumps knit together in their second season without shading each other out.

Is it a perennial or a shrub?

It behaves as an evergreen perennial in most Australian gardens, holding foliage year round rather than dying back. Cut it back after flowering to stop the base going woody.

Will it handle frost?

Yes. It is frost hardy and suited to cool temperate gardens, so tableland and southern winters do not trouble an established plant. Young tubes appreciate a mulch through their first winter.

Can I grow it in a pot?

Yes, one plant to a 300mm or larger pot in free draining mix. Keep it in full sun and water more often than you would in the ground.